Why is my power bill too much!!!

A question like that can't be answered, first, without 1) having a previous bill to go from and 2) know what kind of habits you have in regards to power usage. Sometimes as new homeowners, we don't know what's normal for the new home, especially if we just left something either smaller, gas utilities for some of the appliances, or from home with the parents. Your first winter power bill may knock you clean out your seat. Trust me, I seen it happen(laughing). 

Now, for us more seasoned homeowners, if you've noticed a significant increase in your power bill, then, we can get down to business and checkout some causes here.

At any rate, first, lets take out the power bill. If you notice there were more kwh usage than previous month, you now may be on to something. For instance, the season has changed or between the months of November to February are prime months. The usage of your heater has created a demand. Not only are you using more energy, but now, the cost of using the energy has increased. However, make sure to view the section on your power bill "Year Ago", and this would give you a ballpark of where you should be. If this column is blank, contact power company to retain data.

Another thing is to check the accuracy of your bill. Again, look at your bill. If you only used 100kwh the previous month and now it's 2000kwh the current month. Let us look at the actual reading: start of the month 15000kwh and the end of the month 15100. Clearly you see, there have been only a 100kwh used hear. Therefore, you need to bring this to the attention of your power company. You will be reimbursed.

Okay, time for the heavy duty check, the meter may be running continuously. Shut off all breakers, then go to meter to see if its still spinning or electronic indicators still changing. If this the case,
1) for duplex and apartments, your neighbor may be using your circuit  
2) for the single home unit, the meter may be damage, it's very unlikely, but possible. 

At any rate, get a license electrician over to confirm this and write up a statement to that effect. Then inform power company of damaged meter. While license electrician are on site, he can check for power leakage test, energy cost usage and audit as well.

Why do my Light Bulbs Keep Blowing

Light Engineering 

Light bulbs burning out too often and too soon is a common headache for homeowners. You just purchase some bulbs and you're feeling good about yourself, because finally, you're able to lighten those dark areas in your home and you gotten something accomplished. Then about a couple months later or sooner, you're now replacing them again. Now, your feeling ripped off and a little helpless because you don't know where to go from here. Rest assure, you've come to the right place for you information.

The most common thing to check is maximum wattage of fixture or lamp. 

We tend to want more light in dark areas by any means, therefore we install the notorious 100W bulb in the fixture. Not realizing, not only is this a fire hazard, but also shortening the life of the bulb. All fixtures has max ratings. You may find it either on the socket or globes. If undetermined, treat it as a 60W max rating. When the maximum rating is compromised due to the heat, you then have a breakdown of the insulation, the socket, and also the bulb itself. 

The next thing to check is the quality of the bulb. 

You don't have to be an expert in this area, you just need to know your lighting brands here. Not all bulbs are the same. There are the good, the bad, and the ugly. Buying quality actually matters in buying bulbs, believe it or not. Once you made sure you complied with the max rating and you are still blowing bulbs, you must check quality. I won't endorse here, but you may contact me for the big three brands or your local home improvement store. 

Vibration around the fixture. 

Something as simple as slamming a door can jeopardize a light bulb in a wall sconce near it. Kids playing in an upper room can also trigger the problem. Another thing some of us don't think about, is our ceiling fans. They are common as well. Some bulbs just aren't naturally subject to excessive vibration. The good thing is, there are bulbs design for such application. Just look a little closer next time at the store. There are rough service bulbs, sometimes called ceiling fan bulbs, garage door opener bulbs, and appliance bulbs. They have additional support for the filament in them.

Improper installation 

Sometime screwing the bulb in too tight can cause a problem. The brass tab on the base can be damage over a period of time. When screwed tightly the tab will spring back and forth when depressed slightly. 

A loose bulb or a buld that's cross- thread can pose a problem too. The lack of connection can cause overheating when equals to short life. 

Surges

There may be spikes from the power company at times. But a whole house surge protector can solve the bulb problem and a 130V rated bulb, as well. 

There may be other causes as well. Also, good practice is to install bulb with switch off. But remember, some things are just an "Act of God. " 

Questions to Ask an Electrician

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Certified 

If you need to consult a professional electrician or electrical contractor, ask the following questions to learn whether the individuals you're considering

are fully qualified and likely to do reliable work at a reasonable price.

Are you licensed in this municipality?

Not all states, counties or towns regulate or require licenses for electricians, but it's prudent to check first with your local building department.

Also ask if electrical work in your municipality must adhere to standards established by the National Electrical Code.

Will my electrical panel need replacement?

The current National Electrical Code recommends a minimum 100-amp incoming electrical service. If your service panel provides less,

it should be upgraded to this level or better to meet today's home requirements. Most new homes are wired with 200-amp service.

Will I have to apply for a permit?

If a permit is required, the electrician often will make the application for the homeowner.

 Some municipalities allow homeowners to do minor electrical repairs and installations if they first secure a permit and have the work inspected when complete.

Is my home's electrical system adequately grounded?

Ground-wiring protects a home and its occupants in case of an electrical fault, such as a short-circuit.

 But grounding also protects expensive electronic equipment like computers and many appliances. An electrician can quickly check and add grounding capacity if needed.

Are there any hidden costs for the work?

The electrician should do a thorough preliminary inspection and provide you with a firm,

accurate estimate of the work involved, along with the cost of fixtures or wiring that will be installed. If additional work is necessary,

it can be negotiated and billed separately.

Will you use all-copper wiring for any new installation?

Solid copper wiring is the material of choice for new homes or renovations. Although 14-gage wire is allowed for many circuits,

 it's smart to install heavier 12-gage wiring, which costs a little more but can handle more electrical current, making it safer and more energy-efficient.

If my service needs upgrading, will the entire house have to be rewired?

Unless you live in a very old home with antiquated wiring, you probably won't have to replace your existing electrical lines.

 However, if you require more electrical capacity in certain rooms, new wiring runs and additional outlets are likely to be needed.

Can you provide references from other homeowners?

Every tradesperson or electrician is only as good as their reputation. If you have never contracted with the electrician who answered your call,

 it's fair to ask for the names of other homeowners who have and to give them a call to check the contractor's work.

Life Safety- Carbon Monoxide

What is Carbon Monoxide (CO)?

Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, extremely poisonous and explosive gas that causes 1,500 accidental deaths and more than 10,000 injuries each year. CO is slightly lighter than air and mixes throughout the atmosphere. It is a by-product of incomplete combustion, produced when fuels such as natural gas, propane, heating oil, kerosene, coal, charcoal, gasoline or wood are burned with insufficient air.
Effects of CO Poisoning

When a person breathes in carbon monoxide, it is absorbed by hemoglobin, the oxygen-carrying protein in the blood. "Carboxy hemoglobin" is then formed, replacing oxygen, preventing its release in the body and eventually causing suffocation.

• Mild Exposure: Flu-like symptoms including slight headache, nausea, vomiting and fatigue.
• Medium Exposure: Severe headache, drowsiness, confusion and a fast heart rate. Prolonged exposure to medium levels of CO can result in death.
• Extreme Exposure: Loss of consciousness, convulsions, heart and lung failure, possible brain damage and death.

While everyone is at risk for CO poisoning, unborn babies, infants and young children, senior citizens and people with heart and lung problems are at a higher risk due to their greater oxygen needs.
Possible Sources of CO

• Gas stoves
• Hot water heaters
• Fireplaces
• Lawnmowers
• Pilot lights
• Gas or oil furnaces
• Car exhaust fumes
• Wood-burning stoves
• Charcoal
• Gas space heaters
• Tobacco smoke

How to Prevent CO Poisoning

• Inspect flues and chimneys for cracks, corrosion, holes, debris or blockages.
• Buy fuel-powered heaters with automatic shut-off features.
• Fuel heaters in well-ventilated areas.
• Service heaters before the first use of winter season
• Open windows periodically to air out your house. Homes with energy-efficient insulation can trap CO-polluted air inside.
• Use a gas stove for cooking purposes only.
• Operate gas-burning appliances in a well-ventilated room.
• Never leave a car running in a garage.
• Use charcoal grills outdoors, never indoors.
• Install and maintain carbon monoxide detectors.

Life Safety- Fire Extinguisher

 A fire extinguisher is an important fire protection device to have around the house.
The recommended extinguisher for the home is a 2-1/2 pound Class ABC multi-purpose dry chemical extinguisher. Extinguishers are classified depending on the type of combustible material they are suited to extinguish in a fire. Type A is suited for wood, paper, plastics and other non-metallic solids.

Type B is intended for use on burning liquids such as cooking oil, brake fluid, etc. The extinguishing agent used in Type C models does not conduct electricity and therefore is safe to use on electrically charged appliances or outlets. So, a Class ABC extinguisher can be used in any of the above-mentioned scenarios.
Fire extinguishers should be placed within in the kitchen on the exit side of the room, but not within 6 feet of the stove. Having one in the garage that is easily accessible also is recommended.
Fire extinguishers can save property and lives when used correctly. But do not delay calling the fire department first while trying to use the extinguisher.
For an extinguisher to be useful the following factors must be addressed:

• The extinguisher must be maintained in good working order and serviced when necessary.
• It must be accessible (located in a conspicuous or labeled area).
• The user must be able to deploy the agent properly.

Rules for using a portable extinguisher:

• If you have any doubts concerning how to use the fire extinguisher or whether you should try to fight the fire, DO NOT fight the fire. Get out of the room and close the door.
• Be sure everyone else is out, or in the process of getting out, of the house before you begin fighting the fire.
• Extinguishers should only be used when the fire has not extended beyond the initial fuel that was ignited.
• Do not try to fight a large fire. Call the fire department immediately.
• Always have an escape route planned prior to using an extinguisher.
• Apply the extinguisher agent from several feet away.
• Remember PASS

P - Pull the pinA - Aim at the base of the fireS - Squeeze the handle and maintain the pressureS - Sweep from side-to-side and from front to rear

Life Safety- Heaters

HEATERS

- Have a professional inspect and service your central heating unit each year.

- Keep the area around the central heating units clear and clean filters regularly.

"- Space heaters need space." Heaters should be at least three feet away from anything that can burn, including the walls, curtains, and bedding.

- Never leave space heaters operating when you are not in the room or when you go to sleep.

- Electrical and kerosene heaters should be equipped with a cutoff device that will automatically shut off if the unit is tipped over or overheats.

- Make sure electric or kerosene heaters have the "UL" approval seal.

- Check electric space heaters for frayed or splitting wires. Have all problems repaired by a professional before operating.

- Kerosene and natural gas heaters should not be used in an enclosed area unless the area is vented or a window is partially opened to let fresh air in. This prevents the possible buildup of carbon monoxide. If you choose to install carbon monoxide detectors, choose models that are UL-listed, with a digital readout. Follow manufacturer's directions for proper placement.

- Keep children and pets away from space heaters.

- Never use heater/AC or water heater closets for storage.

Life Safety- Electrical

ELECTRICAL SAFETY

The following suggestions can help prevent fires and avoid serious injury or death.

Always use a License Electrician. There are intensive and continual training involved. 

Appliances

- Be sure to unplug all heat-producing appliances like coffee makers, broilers, toasters, irons and heaters when not in use to eliminate a potential fire hazard.

- Heating pads and electric blankets can cause fires. Never roll an electric blanket and never leave a heating pad on for more than 30 minutes.

- Make sure all appliances have the Underwriters Laboratory (UL) listing.

- Operating or touching electrical appliances while standing or sitting in water can cause electrocution.

- Avoid using blow dryers, curling irons, radios, televisions or electric razors around sinks or while in bathtubs.

- After washing a car, do not use electric vacuum cleaners or buffers while in the wet area. Move the vehicle to a dry location before using any electrical appliances, to avoid a shock hazard.

- Never stick metal objects or tools into an appliance unless it is unplugged.

- Place all lamps on level surfaces, away from things that can burn and use bulbs that match the lamp's recommended wattage.

- The bulbs of halogen torchiere floor lamps reach temperatures of 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit. This is heat that is intense enough to ignite wood, plastic or cloth on contact. Monitor the use of these products closely, don't exceed wattage recommendations, and keep them clear of combustible materials. --Even with a protective guard or grill placed over the bulb, these lamps pose a risk.

Extension Cords

- Extension cords are designed for temporary use only. If you must use an extension cord, do not overload them with several appliances or use too many cords in one socket. Do not string multiple extension cords together.

- Make sure you use the proper gauge extension cord for the equipment it is operating, especially with power tools and high-wattage appliances.

- Avoid running extension cords under carpeting, rugs, through doorways or across walkways. To avoid tripping or electrical shorting hazards, protect cords routed across walkways with the proper shield.

- Don’t staple to walls or ceilings, which can damage the insulation.

- Electrical cords should be free of knots and kinks. Have damaged plugs and frayed or worn cords repaired immediately.

- When using outdoor appliances, use only approved exterior extension cords, not the household type normally used indoors.